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日系英伦范 向经典致敬:Baracuta G9夹克与Barbour围巾

2021-11-22 11:11:02

小生这次就不晒鞋啦,晒晒刚收到的两件Beams服饰吧~(橘色风衣之后有机会再晒吧)

订单截图如下:

聊到英国的经典,大家自然而然的会想到Burberry的经典战壕大衣、Savile Row的定制西装与John Lobb的绅士鞋履,而Baracuta与Barbour这两个品牌,相信了解的值友就不太多了。

--------------------------------------Baracuta品牌介绍------------------------------------

官网

由于几乎没有Baracuta的中文介绍,...

Located in Manchester, the city that sees downpour almost every other day, Baracuta earned a solid reputation producing rainwear for Burberry and Aquascrutum. It was in 1937 that John and Isaac Miller decided to have their own go at the market and produced what would prove to be a versatile, timeless classic: the Baracuta G9.

创立于曼彻斯特,这座英国的“雨城”,Baracuta一开始依靠为Burberry与Aquascrutum代工雨衣而在业内小有名气。随后于1937年,创始人两兄弟John Miller与Isaac Miller不甘心让Baracuta继续在苦逼呵呵的代工之路走下去,决意推出拥有自己品牌烙印的产品,一代夹克经典“Baracuta G9”自此诞生。

A key design characteristic that would set the G9 apart from its contemporaries was its waist-length, allowing more freedom of movement than a trenchcoat or mac, while still offering protection during showers. Other trademarks include the button-fastened collar, elastic waistband and cuffs and the 5-point umbrella vent reverse. With the design nearly finished, the Miller brothers took to Scotland, asking Lord Lovat, head of the Fraser clan, for permission and license to use the clans famous red tartan for the jackets lining. With Lovats consent in place, the brothers began manufacturing the classic G9 Harrington jacket, as well as other variations including the G4 and G10.

G9与当时其他夹克在设计上的一个重大区别是其长度,齐腰的长度设计使其与trenchcoat及mac相比,在带来更优异活动性的同时也提供了足够的防雨性。其他设计特点还包括系扣式衣领、使用弹性绷带的袖口与下摆、以及后背的“雨伞褶”。当G9设计几近完成之时,Miller兄弟动身前往苏格兰拜访Lord Lovat(费沙氏族的领袖),望其准许Baracuta使用费沙氏族有名的红色格子呢来制作夹克内衬。获允之后,G9夹克正式开始生产。

Being both functional and extremely refined, the versatile Baracuta G9 tread a fine line between casual and chic, soon drawing attention from all walks of life. In the 1950s Baracuta began exporting to the United States, where the sports coat quickly gained popularity amongst the mods adopting the Ivy League look.

良好的功能性与优异的做工使得G9夹克看似休闲随意,实则优雅别致。二十世纪五十年代Baracuta开始出口美国。

The G9s silver screen debut in 1958, worn by Elvis Presley in King Creole, instantly propelled the Baracuta G9 to the forefront of fashion. Soon after, the jacket was embraced by other icons, including Frank Sinatra and The King of Cool, Steve McQueen, who popularized the natural colored G9. A decade after its introduction in the US, the Baracuta G9 was already cemented in the annals of fashion.

G9夹克荧幕处女秀出现在1958年。当时猫王穿着G9出演了电影King Creole,这迅速将G9推向了时尚前沿。随后G9被更多的名人所青睐,包括弗兰克·辛纳特拉与“酷王之王”史蒂夫・麦奎因。

The Harrington nickname was coined by John Simmons, owner of The Ivy Shop, after a character named Rodney Harrington who was often seen wearing the classic G9 in the popular 60s TV show Peyton Place. The show ended in 1969 but the nickname stuck around.

“哈灵顿”这个小名来自The Ivy Shop(一家1965年于英国Richmond设立的男装店)的老板约翰・西蒙斯。在六十年代热播的电视剧Peyton Place中,一位名叫罗德尼・哈灵顿的角色经常被看到穿着一件G9夹克,从此G9夹克有了“哈灵顿夹克”这个昵称。电视剧Peyton Place于1969年完结,但是“哈灵顿夹克”这个叫法流传至今。

--------------------------------------Barbour品牌介绍----------------------------------------

以下摘自Barbour百度百科:

英伦三岛气候潮湿,这里的人都缺不了一款合适的外套。同为英国王室的雨衣及外套供应商,Aquascutum和Burberry已经为我们所熟悉,只有Barbour还没有进入中国。可是真要论品质,排名第一的当属低调的Barbour。英伦产品很多标榜自己是皇室御用之物,Burberry更是将昔日英王赐名作为品牌发展史的重要篇章。但是论王室宠爱,Burberry和Aquascutum加起来也不如另一老牌Barbour。Burberry如今持有两个王室御用状,分别来自女王和查尔斯王子。至于Aquascutum,仅持有一个,来自已故的王太后。唯有Barbour先后于1979、1982及1987获得女王、王夫艾丁伯格公爵、查尔斯王子三位的御用状,其受王室宠爱程度不言而喻。而这三人也是如今唯一可以发出王室御用状的王室成员。

-------------------------------------------晒单----------------------------------------------

夹克链接:BARACUTA Icon Models×BEAMS PLUS

官网正面

官网背面(雨伞褶)

整件衣服做工真的很棒,完全找不到一根线头,这也让撸主今后对Made In England的产品有了更多信心。G9所使用的内衬Fraser Tartan为 Clan Fraser of Lovat所使用,该氏族至今在Inverness及周边地区都有相当影响力。

Britains best rainwear since 1937.Baracuta你这么写考虑过Burberry和Barbour的感受吗哈哈哈

内衬logo特写

拉链是双向的,拉起来顺滑无比。两个拉链外型上也不相同,一个带有品牌logo,另一个则刻有Baracuta全拼。

系扣式衣领,防风、保暖。

纽扣特写,刻有Baracuta以及Since 1937

围巾已经卖光,所以我之前的购买链接已经失效了。

撸主实拍

Barbour上方为三个皇室御用状的标志。

围巾苏格兰产,用的是lambswool羊羔毛,手感很不错。售价6480JPY,性价比拔群啊~

--------------------------------------尺码与穿着感受-----------------------------------------

尺码选择

Beams官网每件衣服,如果有模特试穿的话,会写出该模特身高体重以及TA所穿衣服尺码,从而方便顾客确定合适自己的尺码。以这件Baracuta G9夹克为例:

模特身高183cm 体重65kg 穿38码。撸主171cm 60kg 果断34码。

穿着感受

G9的面料采用高支纱的纯棉制成,并经过杜邦Teflon处理,拥有很好的防风、防水性能。肩部是插肩的款式,让衣服对身材有更好的适应性。衣领为系扣式设计,防风、保暖。背部雨伞褶,保证G9在雨天也拥有良好的防雨透气性能。反折兜盖使雨水不容易流到兜里,并且在双手插在兜里的时候仍能保持整体的利落风格。袖口和下摆的设计款式是Knit Jersey,提供了良好的活动性。

-----------------------------------------真人兽--------------------------------------------

撸主一个人住,自拍实在有点别扭,就不多上真人兽了。

日系英伦范 向经典致敬:Baracuta G9夹克与Barbour围巾

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